Monday 24 November 2014

Contemporary images and my face charts, practice of the looks and final decision

After looking at so many contemporary Elizabethan makeup looks I found two more I wanted to use for my designs. 

My first contemporary Elizabethan  makeup design was inspired by the Clio ( a Korean beauty brand) Gelpresso Waterproof Pencil Gel Liner Bloody series for SS 2013- Devil vs Angel

And here is a link to the Clio website if anyone is interested in checking out their products. Unfortunately you can't find the whole range of products there



I choose this image as a contemporary Elizabethan makeup inspiration because the overall look has a kind of Elizabethan feel. Park Sandara's face is very pale and they used different kind of red tones on the eyes. Which you can both link to the Elizabethan era (pale /white face and use of red-> original only on lips and cheeks). The crimped her helps to create an Elizabethan feel as well. To create this really nice eye makeup they used the Clio Gelpresso Waterproof Gel Liner in Bloody Devil( a burgundy tone), Bloody Sweet (beige pink) and Bloody Angel (rose- red which also looks a bit peachy).
For my inspired design I concentrated on the eyes as well. But I want my face to be even paler and would block out the eyebrows to take the eye shadow up all the way. 

Similar the Sandara's look I used a pink, burgundy red and a peachy orange. After blocking out the eyebrow and applying a pale base I would apply the peachy tone on the inner eye and take it up all the way over your actual eyebrows .Then use the pink and fill out the rest of the eye with it. The pink (Hussy) and peachy (Lover)eye shadow are from the Illamasqua Powder Blusher Duo.Later on I also used the peachy tone for the lips. As for the eyeliner I originally used on the face chart a burgundy tone from a Claire's eye shadow palette( has no name unfortunately) . Even though the colors of this eye shadow palette looks so pretty they don't work very well on skin. A huge disappointment!! So I had to change it and used Kryolan's Supercolor Palette 081 instead when I tried out this look on myself. But because the Supercolor is greasy I didn't like how it looked in the end. I don't know I imagined it to look different:) Also the 081 is a different tone to the one I actually wanted to use, so I wasn't pleased with that as well. In the makeup look from the Clio series the eyeliner is already bold but I wanted to make mine even bigger. So I took out the eyeliner almost reaching the hairline. On the inner eye area I made the eye liner line very sharp. As for the lashes I used Illamasqua skinbase to whiten them. For the lips, as already mentioned, I used the Illamasqua Powder Blusher Duo peachy tone called Lover. I only dabbed it on the lips softly and also didn't fill the entire lips with it.




I really liked this makeup design on the face chart but after I tried it out on myself I thought that it didn't look very Elizabethan. Well I am actually not sure if it does or not. But I still wasn't satisfied with the outcome. I was very displeased with the eyes and eyebrows. Also I tried to block out the eyebrows with soap for the first time and in the beginning I thought it worked well but when I applied the makeup ,after a while the eyebrows weren't very smooth anymore and also the fact that the eyebrows are still too dark annoys me.


For my second design inspiration I used the Korean Vogue Editorial from December 2012.
Model for it was Park Soo Joo- One of my favourite Korean models by the way ^^


When you just look at the outfit it doesn't look Elizabethan but if you only concentrate on face and hair you will be reminded of the Elizabethan era. So when I first saw these pictures I immediately thought of Elizabethans . The hair looks like it is a messy heart shape with some curls on the side. Even though those curls are not typical Elizabethan curls.They were more tight. But the backcombed messy heart shape hair gives it a very Elizabethan touch. As for the make up , what it makes Elizabethan for me is again the very pale face, soft red cheeks but also the deep red lips, which are not completely filled in. The contemporary bit are definitely  the eyes. They used blue and yellow eye shadow. The eyebrows are in contrast to Elizabethan eyebrows very harsh . 

 When I created my face chart I used a few of the makeup ideas from the Editorial but made them more bold. Instead of the blue I used Graphica from  the Illamasqua Reflection Palette . And to link it more to the Elizabethan era I changed the yellow into a nice gold( used Kryolan Supercolor) because with golden clothes or accessories they showed wealth and status. I also blocked out the eyebrows (using glue this time) because I wanted more space for the eye shadow and also wanted to change the eyebrows into very thin and long eyebrows. For the new eyebrows I used 'Anis' from the Kryolan Viva Brilliant Color Medley Matt Palette and mixed it with water. Under the eyes I applied pearls ( they close up with the eyebrows) to give it a very Elizabethan touch. I also used the Illamasqua skinbase to whiten the eyelashes. For the base I used the white from the Kryolan Supercolroe Palette with 'Alabaster' (lightest color) from the Kryolan Ultrafoundation Palette, because I didn't want it to be too white. Then I contoured the cheeks quite heavily with a mixture of Kryolan's Blusher Palette 101 and 665G. For the lips I wanted a brownish red so I mixed the red and black MAC lipmix.  To make it more contemporary I added the shiny MAC lipmix medium as well. And then applied it creating a heart shape.  






Apart from the fact that I have to apply the eye shadow more neatly and maybe should do some stencils for the eyebrows to get them even on both sides I was very pleased with the outcome. I was a bit scared after the first design failed that this one wouldn't work as well but I really like it. Unfortunately my phone camera is rubbish and you can't see the contouring that well.

My final decision is to use my second design for the assessment. It works better and looks much more Elizabethan than the first design.

I had two more designs which I created without any contemporary Elizabethan inspiration but they were too simple or too Elizabethan . So I decided not to use or post them here at all.

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