Monday 24 November 2014

Contemporary images and my face charts, practice of the looks and final decision

After looking at so many contemporary Elizabethan makeup looks I found two more I wanted to use for my designs. 

My first contemporary Elizabethan  makeup design was inspired by the Clio ( a Korean beauty brand) Gelpresso Waterproof Pencil Gel Liner Bloody series for SS 2013- Devil vs Angel

And here is a link to the Clio website if anyone is interested in checking out their products. Unfortunately you can't find the whole range of products there



I choose this image as a contemporary Elizabethan makeup inspiration because the overall look has a kind of Elizabethan feel. Park Sandara's face is very pale and they used different kind of red tones on the eyes. Which you can both link to the Elizabethan era (pale /white face and use of red-> original only on lips and cheeks). The crimped her helps to create an Elizabethan feel as well. To create this really nice eye makeup they used the Clio Gelpresso Waterproof Gel Liner in Bloody Devil( a burgundy tone), Bloody Sweet (beige pink) and Bloody Angel (rose- red which also looks a bit peachy).
For my inspired design I concentrated on the eyes as well. But I want my face to be even paler and would block out the eyebrows to take the eye shadow up all the way. 

Similar the Sandara's look I used a pink, burgundy red and a peachy orange. After blocking out the eyebrow and applying a pale base I would apply the peachy tone on the inner eye and take it up all the way over your actual eyebrows .Then use the pink and fill out the rest of the eye with it. The pink (Hussy) and peachy (Lover)eye shadow are from the Illamasqua Powder Blusher Duo.Later on I also used the peachy tone for the lips. As for the eyeliner I originally used on the face chart a burgundy tone from a Claire's eye shadow palette( has no name unfortunately) . Even though the colors of this eye shadow palette looks so pretty they don't work very well on skin. A huge disappointment!! So I had to change it and used Kryolan's Supercolor Palette 081 instead when I tried out this look on myself. But because the Supercolor is greasy I didn't like how it looked in the end. I don't know I imagined it to look different:) Also the 081 is a different tone to the one I actually wanted to use, so I wasn't pleased with that as well. In the makeup look from the Clio series the eyeliner is already bold but I wanted to make mine even bigger. So I took out the eyeliner almost reaching the hairline. On the inner eye area I made the eye liner line very sharp. As for the lashes I used Illamasqua skinbase to whiten them. For the lips, as already mentioned, I used the Illamasqua Powder Blusher Duo peachy tone called Lover. I only dabbed it on the lips softly and also didn't fill the entire lips with it.




I really liked this makeup design on the face chart but after I tried it out on myself I thought that it didn't look very Elizabethan. Well I am actually not sure if it does or not. But I still wasn't satisfied with the outcome. I was very displeased with the eyes and eyebrows. Also I tried to block out the eyebrows with soap for the first time and in the beginning I thought it worked well but when I applied the makeup ,after a while the eyebrows weren't very smooth anymore and also the fact that the eyebrows are still too dark annoys me.


For my second design inspiration I used the Korean Vogue Editorial from December 2012.
Model for it was Park Soo Joo- One of my favourite Korean models by the way ^^


When you just look at the outfit it doesn't look Elizabethan but if you only concentrate on face and hair you will be reminded of the Elizabethan era. So when I first saw these pictures I immediately thought of Elizabethans . The hair looks like it is a messy heart shape with some curls on the side. Even though those curls are not typical Elizabethan curls.They were more tight. But the backcombed messy heart shape hair gives it a very Elizabethan touch. As for the make up , what it makes Elizabethan for me is again the very pale face, soft red cheeks but also the deep red lips, which are not completely filled in. The contemporary bit are definitely  the eyes. They used blue and yellow eye shadow. The eyebrows are in contrast to Elizabethan eyebrows very harsh . 

 When I created my face chart I used a few of the makeup ideas from the Editorial but made them more bold. Instead of the blue I used Graphica from  the Illamasqua Reflection Palette . And to link it more to the Elizabethan era I changed the yellow into a nice gold( used Kryolan Supercolor) because with golden clothes or accessories they showed wealth and status. I also blocked out the eyebrows (using glue this time) because I wanted more space for the eye shadow and also wanted to change the eyebrows into very thin and long eyebrows. For the new eyebrows I used 'Anis' from the Kryolan Viva Brilliant Color Medley Matt Palette and mixed it with water. Under the eyes I applied pearls ( they close up with the eyebrows) to give it a very Elizabethan touch. I also used the Illamasqua skinbase to whiten the eyelashes. For the base I used the white from the Kryolan Supercolroe Palette with 'Alabaster' (lightest color) from the Kryolan Ultrafoundation Palette, because I didn't want it to be too white. Then I contoured the cheeks quite heavily with a mixture of Kryolan's Blusher Palette 101 and 665G. For the lips I wanted a brownish red so I mixed the red and black MAC lipmix.  To make it more contemporary I added the shiny MAC lipmix medium as well. And then applied it creating a heart shape.  






Apart from the fact that I have to apply the eye shadow more neatly and maybe should do some stencils for the eyebrows to get them even on both sides I was very pleased with the outcome. I was a bit scared after the first design failed that this one wouldn't work as well but I really like it. Unfortunately my phone camera is rubbish and you can't see the contouring that well.

My final decision is to use my second design for the assessment. It works better and looks much more Elizabethan than the first design.

I had two more designs which I created without any contemporary Elizabethan inspiration but they were too simple or too Elizabethan . So I decided not to use or post them here at all.

Thursday 20 November 2014

" You can put on all the makeup you want, but it won’t make your soul pretty" - Kevyn Aucoin






Kevyn Aucoin was born 1962 (died in 2002) in Louisiana and adopted by Adrian Aucoin and Thelma Suzanne Melancon. Even though he was one of the greatest Make-Up artists his personal life wasn't that nice. He was bullied throughout school and later when he just started to work as a Make-Up artist he was rejected by women because they didn't want him to do their make-up because he was a man. He was suffering most of his life from acromegaly(result of the tumor, but no one diagnosed the tumor until 2001) and later he was  diagnosed with a pituitary tumor. He died due to a liver and kidney failure that was caused by some of the painkillers he took.
But when it came to Make-up he was very successful. After moving to New York and working unpaid he was discovered by Vogue. He worked a lot with Vogue but also collaborated with Revlon and developed with them their 'The New Naked' line, which covered all skin tones. In 2001 he launched his own make-up line under the name 'Kevyn Aucoin beauty'. He also wrote 3 books.

The Art Of Make-Up


http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Art-Makeup-Kevyn-Aucoin/dp/0062730428

Making Faces


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Making-Faces-Kevyn-Aucoin/dp/0316286850

Face Forward


http://ana-lee.livejournal.com/222253.html

He was loved by the celebrities he worked with and was described as having a special charm and a nice personality. 1994 he was awarded with the CFDA ( Council of Fashion Designers of America) Award, which was the only time a Make-Up Artist was honored with this award. This shows his immense influence in the beauty industry. "Being largely responsible for the beauty stylings of the 1990s such as Brooke Shield’s matte lips, Christy Turlington's arched brow and Cindy Crawford’s lipliner". http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/4039/Remembering_Kevyn_Aucoin



Persons he worked with

MARY J.BLIGE, MISSY ELLIOTT, LIL'KIM, BEVERLY PEELE, CHER, MADONNA, CINDY CRAWFORD

 http://www.beautylish.com/a/vxgza/kevyn-aucoin-history

LINDA EVANGELISTA

http://www.beautylish.com/a/vxgza/kevyn-aucoin-history

CHER


http://bandofthebes.typepad.com/bandofthebes/2008/02/born-february-4.html

CINDY CRAWFORD

COURTNEY LOVE

Courtney Love and Kevyn Aucoin
http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/4039/Remembering_Kevyn_Aucoin

NAOMI CAMPBELL

GWYNETH PALTROW

JULIA ROBERTS


TINA TURNER


http://beautyandglamour.nl/brand-kevyn-aucoin.html

CHRISTINA RICCI


https://www.flickr.com/photos/bohemea/sets/72157622437652062/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bohemea/sets/72157622437652062/

JANET JACKSON

http://www.beautylish.com/a/vxgza/kevyn-aucoin-history

Sunday 9 November 2014

Tim Burton's Red Queen in 'Alice in Wonderland' - Off with his head!




Alice in Wonderland- The Red Queen

Helena Bonham Carter played the Red Queen in Tim Burton's version of Alice in Wonderland from 2010.



OFF WITH HIS HEAD!!


When you look at the Red Queen you can see similarities to the Elizabethan beauty ideal. Such as a quite high forehead, very white skin, red lips and the heart shaped red hair. The Elizabethan didn't had heart shaped lips but you can use the heart shape as a reference to it- use of heart shape in hair. I think the Red Queen is quite a contemporary version of the Elizabethan's. Using this bright turquoise color gives it a very modern touch. Also Elizabethan eyebrows were were light and thin or completely shaved off and here we have still thin but dark eyebrows. When I read the interview with the makeup designer for 'Alice in Wonderland', Valli O'Reilly, on Lisa Eldridge's blog (http://www.lisaeldridge.com/blog/26587/make-up-moments-off-with-her-head/#.VF_4MfmsVbG) I found it very interesting how they came up with the makeup design and to see how they with overcame difficulties. Such as how to make the eyebrows disappear. ' Then Tim decided he didn’t want eyebrows on her. Helena has quite thick eyebrows so I couldn’t take them away like you do for fashion, or the way drag queens do it because her eyebrows were too thick, that’s when we had to make a decision to get prosthetics involved. A piece had to be made to cover her eyebrows.' (http://www.lisaeldridge.com/blog/26587/make-up-moments-off-with-her-head/#.VF_4MfmsVbG) If you keep reading the interview you know that there were also problems with the prosthetic because it wasn't as flexible and moved when Helena's facial expression was intense. So they had to make other ones. A lot of people think makeup is very easy but here you can see that there is more to it. 

Overview of Val Garland


VAL GARLAND
Before Val Garland started as a makeup artist she was a hairdresser in Australia. Originally from Bristol she has been living the last 20 years in London. She worked, and still is , for a big variety of  Designers, Magazines, Makeup brands and Celebrities. After reading a few of her interviews,the main thing I can say about Val Garland is that she absolutely loves to work and experiment with colors. I will give you now a few examples with whom she has worked with.


Rimmel


Dior

Mulberry

W Magazine

Alexander McQueen

Kate Moss for Alexander McQueen (Spring 2014)

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood's Red Label Campaign SS 2014


Vivienne Westwood's Red Label Campaign AW 2014


Lady Gaga
Kate Moss

Dazed and Confused Magazine

MAC

Nick Knight

John Galliano

Vogue
Vogue Japan November 2009
The Kiss of Demons
http://www.hautfashion.com/fashion-photography/tao-stepping-bad-side


Vogue China March 2014

British Vogue April 2012
The Joker's Wild

Vogue Homme Japan FW 2010
Lady Gaga as her alter ego Jo Calderone

Numéro Magazine

Swarovski
Miranda Kerr for Swarovski FW 2013



Mary Katrantzou
FW 2014
Mugler


Jeremy Scott
SS 2012



Garage Magazine
FW 2014


Burberry


Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss for the 'My Burberry' Fragrance Campaign 

Giambattista Valli SS 2015



Other