Monday, 8 December 2014

My final design + Step-By-Step Guide



As I already mentioned here I chose the editorial with Park Soo Joo from the Korean Vogue from December 2012 as my inspiration for my contemporary Elizabethan design.





My face chart

 You need:
  • Kryolan supercolor palette
  • Kryolan ultrafoundation palette
  • Illamasqua translucent powder
  • Illamasqua skin base
  • Kryolan blusher palette
  • Kryolan Viva Brilliant Color Medley Matt palette
  • MAC lip mix in red and black, mixing medium in shine
  • Illamasqua Reflection palette
  • pearls to stick on
  • Prit stick
  • Black circle lenses
  • Flower moistfull cream from Etude House
  • Nymph Aura Volumer from Etude House
  • ruler/tape
  • black/brown eye liner
  • brown/nude lip liner
  • eyebrow stencils
Start off with applying the Flower moistfull cream on the face. At the moment a have a few very dry patches in my face so it is especially important to moisturize.

Eyebrows:
  • block out eyebrows using glue
  • apply at least 3-4 layers of glue
  • powder
  • it doesn't matter if they still look a bit dark, it is important that they are smooth
Base:
  • mix white supercolor with 'Alabaster' from the ultrafoundation palette->use more of the white
  • start applying by covering the eyebrows first
  • also don't forget to cover ears and neck as well
  • powder well
  • strong contouring of cheeks, mix 101 and 665G from the blusher palette
Eyes:
  • mix 'Anis' from the Viva Brilliant palette with a tiny bit of water-> draw  thin and very long eyebrows above the blocked out eyebrows to give it more space for the eye shadow
  • I will provide stencils for the eyebrows to make it easier
  • Start with applying 'Graphic' from the Illamasqua Relfection palette and apply it in the middle of the eyelid and go until you almost reach the outer eye corner, take it up to the new eyebrows as well->you can use tape or a ruler to get perfect straight and even lines before you apply the eye shadow, just draw it with a black or brown eye liner
  • then apply the golden supercolor from the inner eye corner/ nose, cover part of the eyebrows as well and go up to the newly drawn eyebrows->then go to the outer eye corner and close it with the eyebrows in a diagonal line, after applying supercolor powder well to prevent greasy lines
  • under the eyes: apply pearls from the inner eye going up to the end of the eyebrows
  • whiten eyelashes using the Illamasqua skin base


Lips:
  • use red and black MAC lip mix and mix it with the shine mixing medium creating a nice deep brown
  • create a heart shape on lips with it, you can draw the outlines with a lip liner first
  • especially define the cupid's bow

->after you are done you could apply Etude House's Nymph Aura Volumer on top of the cheekbones to give it a dewy affect
->I will also apply black circle lenses before the makeup is applied because I think it would give a nice extra effect


Elizabeth: The Golden Age - Film review






We watched Elizabeth- The Golden Age during lesson at Uni and I have to say there were some interesting changes. 
Not only in Elizabeth's clothes,  hair and makeup but also in her personality.
First of all her dresses are more elaborate then before.
I especially like this one



In the first movie we saw at the end that she shaved her hair off and in this one you can see that she keeps it very short and just wears different wigs.

As well as her fashion her hairstyles became more elaborate too.

 



The only time she wore her hair loose again, when she was with her army waiting for the Spanish troops


Still from Elizabeth: The Golden Age


But I have to say that I was a bit disappointment about the makeup. I thought she would keep it like from the 'I married to England' scene from the first movie but compared to it , it was rather plain. Of course you still saw that the base was very pale but not as pale as I thought it would be.


But was I noticed it that Elizabeth looks in the second movie much more older and partly very tired and ill. You can see her damaged skin and wrinkles.

Something that  was very interesting to see was how much she needed Walter Raleigh( Clive Owen) around her later and how angry and disappointed she was at the end when she found out that Walter and her closest chamber lady Bess(Elizabeth) married and had a child. I remember very well how she said in the first movie that she doesn't need a man and that she is married to England but then you saw her being so dependent on Walter Raleigh. But I think that just shows how truly lonely she must have been.

Ellis Faas



About Ellis Faas

I will do just a short introduction about Ellis Faas. If you want to know more just visit her website.Ellis Faas was born 1962 in the Netherlands. Before becoming one of the greatest Make-up artist, she studied professional photography.  After working with Mario Testino in 1999 and travelling through fashion cities like Paris, New York, London and L.A "she met French fashion editor Emmanuelle Alt, who introduced her to Karl Lagerfeld"http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/about/,which brought her the big success. 

IDENTITY REVEALED
BY
ELLIS FAAS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taIWlCi9SxQ

When I saw Identity Revealed and read that Ellis Faas was to create masks inspired by  traditional mask from the natives from the Ivory Coast I was immediately reminded of the African masks we have at home. I think my mum and dad brought them back from one of their trips to either Tunesia or Gambia. I find it very astonishing how she recreated the mask by using different colors of paint/makeup as well as different materials and textures. Also the part when they try take rip off the masks is really cool.

"Since ancient times, humans have been using masks - in order to express power and authority; to feel self-confident; to stand out or to hide behind; to not be recognized and disappear into the masses. Not only by traditional masks, but also by disguising and ornamental elements such as clothing, jewellery, hair and makeup. But can one truly change one's identity, or is it merely a temporary transformation? And who or what defines someone's true identity? Is it the mask, is it the human being behind the mask, or maybe even the creator of the mask?"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taIWlCi9SxQ


I think this statement says everything. So what do you think what or who defines your identity?


I am not really good at remembering names so when I first heard Ellis Faas I thought who is this? But then I had a look on her websites and I realized I actually have seen her work before. :) I think she is doing an amazing job. And you get so inspired after looking through her work. It is also very impressive to see for which brands, campaigns, magazines or photographers she has worked.

Just to list some of them.

Chanel
Paola Roversi
Dazed & Confused
MAC
Diane von Fürstenberg
Moschino
Boss Orange
Vogue
Helena Christensen
Givenchy
W Magazine
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Yves Saint- Laurent Haute Couture
Harper's Bazaar
Lancôme


And here is some of her work


http://www.ellisfaas.com/

Sephora

http://www.sephora.com/ellis-faas


http://citygirlinredlipstick.com/tag/sankta-lucia-ellis-faas/


http://www.ellisfaas.com/


http://www.skins.nl/merken/ellisfaas

Some screenshots from 'Identity Revealed'


http://www.examiner.com/article/ellis-faas-lends-her-creativity-to-the-magical-africa-exhibit


http://www.warpaintmag.com/2013/11/19/goingdutch/
You can also read a nice interview with Ellis Faas on thet website


http://softly.nothingspaces.com/2014/10/29/identity-revealed-a-filmed-triptych-by-ellis-faas/


Not is Ellis Faas an amazing Make-up artist, she also created and developed her own makeup products. And as seeing that not only normal people buy and use it, but also other Make-up artist work with her products must be a huge achievement for her. It also shows that her collection must be of a very good quality. I also like how her products are all in those pen's which makes it super easy to work with them but also very handy when travelling. I think that is apart from the quality another reason for other Make-up artist to work with Ellis' products.

You can see some of the Make-up artist that work with her products listed on her website.
But I will mention some as well

Megan Harrison
Yin Lee
Kakie
Margo Regan
Thomas Lorenz
Dirk Jensma
Adam De Cruz
Miriam Langelotti

Rihanna as my New Elizabteh



When we were told to choose a person that would portray a New Elizabethan nowadays I first had no clue who to choose. And then I thought about the people in the music and film and fashion industry. I realized there are actually a lot of people who are that powerful and influential that you could call them a New Elizabethan. But after a lot of thinking I decided to choose Rihanna as my New Elizabethan.


I don't necessarily like everything she does but I think she is one of the most influential persons we have at the moment. She is one of the most successful artist in the music industry  with selling "over 150 million records worldwide".http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rihanna
In the beginning Rihanna had a rather girly and innocent image , which I think made her rather popular among young teenage girls. But with the release of her third album 'Good Girl Gone Bad' her image started to change drastically and has been since then ever changing. One of the most memorable moments of her career was definitely the release of the 'Umbrella' MV .


From having long hair and dressing girly she changed to dressing absolutely sexy and her Iconic bob cut hairstyle. After that her clothes became more and more revealing and she changed her hair color and hairstyle a lot! From very short hair too very long, From black hair to bright red, blond or neon pink. There is almost nothing she hasn't tried yet. Another very memorable change in her career was with the release of 'Disturbia'.


I feel that from there on, maybe even a bit before with 'Russian Roulette' her songs became increasingly darker(also 'Man Down' which you can watch here). The amount of sex also increased in her songs/MV's .



Her image became more and more sexier from then on and as said before very revealing. She is very open with her sexuality and literally does what she wants and I think that is something that makes her an Elizabeth of the modern time. She also has a very large fanbase called the Rihanna navy and has a lot of influence in the fashion industry. "On June 2, 2014, Rihanna received the Fashion Icon lifetime achievement award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America(CFDA)."http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rihanna "Rihanna's wardrobe is the most talked-about, influential and dissected in pop right now" and that whatever she wears "is immediately reproduced on the high street, because it sells" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rihanna

But not only has she a lot of influence in the fashion industry, she also is one of the trendsetter when it comes to makeup and hair. For instance was her bob cut super popular after the release of the 'Shut up and Drive' and ' Umbrellas' MV .

So what ever she does she has millions of people watching every step she makes and having that kind of influence she is for me a New Elizabethan, 





Sunday, 7 December 2014

MAC HEIRLOOM MIX



When I opened  the newsletter about the new MAC series I was immediately reminded of the Elizabethans. I think the pictures below would make a really nice contemporary Elizabethan makeup look. In the first picture you have a typical white base Elizabethans would have but they gave it a modern touch by applying thick red-brown eye liner underneath the eyes as well as red-brown shiny lips. As for the cheeks they only applied a soft rose which looks more Elizabethan. The eyebrows are also rather thin and light. Of course the thing that makes the look even more Elizabethan are the pearls. 


http://www.allurabeauty.com/2014/mac-heirloom-mix-color-collection-holiday-2014/




THE COLLECTION
To find the collection on MAC click here
 mac heirloom mix lineup Introducing MAC Heirloom Mix Holiday Collection

I really like this collection because first of all I like the colors of the pigments but also the fact that the pigments and blusher all are shimmery. I also like the reds in the lipstick collection, especially the deep reds. The deep reds are very suitable for the autumn (or now winter)and by combining it with wearing those shimmery eye shadows it makes a lovely look.

MAC-Heirloom-Mix-Pressed-Pigments-2




Some other looks that have been created with the Heirloom Mix

Just look at those shimmery/glittery pigments! I think I am in love with them:) 

Elizabethan Films





I think when it comes to Elizabethan movies the most popular one is Elizabeth, starring Cate Blanchett as Elizabeth. But there are a few more films/TV series about Elizabeth.


1937:
Fire Over England

Directed by: William K. Howard
Written by: Clemence Dane
The film refers to A.E.W Mason's novel 'Fire over England'
Elizabeth was played by Flora Robson who also starred in Wuthering Heights( 1939), Alice's Adventure in Wonderland (1972) and many  more. She lived from 1902-1984


1939:
The private life of Elizabeth and Essex

Directed by: Michael Curtiz
Written by: Norman Reilly Raine and  Aeneas MacKenzie
This american film is based on the Broadway play 'Elizabeth the Queen' by Maxwell Anderson.
Bette Davies (1908-1989) played Elizabeth. She was so determined to play Elizabeth as real as she could that she even had eyebrows shaved off, as well as having her hairline shaved back for several inches.25 years later Bette Davis played again the role of Elizabteh in the film 'The Virgin Queen'. Percy Westmore was responsible for the makeup.

1955:
The Virgin Queen (film)

Directed by: Henry Koster
Written by: Harry Brown and Mindret Lord
Bette Davis played again Elizabeth in this movie but now an older version of Elizabeth.
Percy Westmore worked again on the makeup.

1971:
Elizabeth R


Elizabeth R is a British TV drama by the BBC. It contains of 6 episodes. Glenda Jackson was playing the role of Elizabeth I. Glenda Jackson was born 1936 and is after a long career as an actress, now a Labour Party politician. She also played Elizabeth in Mary, Queen of Scots, Makeup artist for this TV drama was Dawn Alcock.  Glenda  Jackson had her hairline shaved back as well.

I created a playlist on youtube for anyone who is interested watching this drama.
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfyHAuBZ8bGhdCUjV-ziOgOD6Ybcgn-Uf

1998:
Shakespeare in love


Directed by: John Madden
Written by: Marc Norman
Judi Dench starred as Elizabeth in this American- British movie. Judi Dench was born 1934 and also starred in films like A midsummer night's dream( 1968), Hamlet (1996), My week with Marilyn and Jane Eyre (both 2011). Veronica Brebner and Lisa Westcott were creating the makeup for this film.

1998:
Elizabeth

Directed by: Shekhar Kapur
Written by: Michael Hirst
I think this movie is the most popular one when it comes to movies about Elizabeth I. Cate Blanchett starred as Elizabeth and she as well had her hairline shaved back to perfectly portray Elizabeth. Cate Blanchett was born in 1969 and played in movies like The Aviator and The Lord of the Rings. Anita Burger and Jenny Shircore worked on the hair and makeup.

2005:
The Virgin Queen ( British TV)

It is again a BBC produced British TV drama. But is concentrates more on the Elizabeth's private life. The TV series consists of 4 episodes. Elizabeth is played by Anne Marie Duff (born 1970) who was also starring in Shameless. Responsible for the makeup were Neill Gorton, Anna Morena, Maureen McGill and Karen Hartley Thomas.


2005:
Elizabeth I

Directed by: Tom Hooper
Written by: Nigel Williams
Elizabeth I is a British TV drama consisting of two parts, which concentrate more about Elizabeth's last years of reign. Helen Mirren, born 1945. is portraying Elizabeth I. She also played Elizabeth II. in the movie The Queen from 2006. She also starring in the movies Excalibur (1981) and Hamlet(1976)

2007:
Elizabeth- The Golden Age

Directed by: Shekhar Kapur
Written by: William Nicholson and Michael Hirst.
This movie is a sequel to the Elizabeth movie from 1998. Again Cate Blanchett is playing Elizabeth. Makeup was done by Morag Ross, Susan Howard, Joe Hopker and Jon Henry Gordon.

Create a contemporary Elizabethan makeup look



In our lesson we could choose between 2 pictures and do the same contemporary Elizabethan makeup look or just take some ideas from it and create a different version of it.
I choose this picture of Lily Cole.
You need:
  • Illamasqua translucent powder
  • Kryolan supercolor in white
  • glue
  • foundation brush
  • powder brush
  • Kryolan blusher palette
  • Kryolan Viva Brilliant Color Medley Matt palette
  • MAC lip mix in red and black to create a brown
  • round brush
  • spatula
  • baby buds
  • cotton pads
->first I blocked out the eyebrows using glue
->I did 3-4 layers of glue to make sure the eyebrows will be very smooth
->after you cleaned off any excess glue with lukewarm water an a baby bud powder the eyebrows
->then apply base, I used white form the Kryolan supercolor palette
->to get the base nice and even buff it out very well
->apply powder and make sure to cover everything, especially the eye area to avoid any greasy lines
->then I applied the eye shadow-> I used a mix of 'Anis' and 'Turmeric' from the Kryolan Viva Brilliant Color Medley Matt palette
->get rid of any excess eye shadow before you apply it and keep the eye shadow very soft through blending
->I also took the eye shadow a little bit down the nose
->for the lips I mixed the red and black MAC lip mix with the lip mix medium
->at last apply the blusher in a kind of round shape -> I used 665G from Kryolan blusher palette as well as my heart shaped powder brush from H&M Divided


NOTE FOR NEXT TIME:
  • work on the eyebrows-> they need to get smoother
  • don't forget to cover the neck as well
All in all I wasn't very satisfied with my work. I like the cheeks and lips but I think I could have definitely done better with the eye shadow.