Sara Gerwat MUA: 2014

Monday 8 December 2014

3 brushes challenge

For the 3 brush challenge I choose the Kryolan Angled brush, a round brush from Essence and the Kryolan Smoothing brush.

I think this is a very good choice because with the smoothing brush you can apply foundation as well as powder. With the round brush you can even out small bits you couldn't get into with the smoothing brush , like the wrinkles under your eye:) But you can also you this brush for eye shadow and is perfect for blending. With the angled brush you can do your eyebrows, lips and apply eye liner.

What I will use today

Skin Food Black egg pore gel base
Catrice Infinite Matt foundation
Chanel Illuminating Makeup base
Essence Eyebrow shadow palette
Essence eyebrow gel
Essence Home Sweet Home blush
Catrice Mascara
Maybelline Eye liner in broen
Holika Holika Jewel light Peach eye maker
carmex lip balm
Astor Perfect Stay lip tint in 260 Tequila Sunrise
and of course my 3 brushes
Illamasqua translucent powder

->first I applied the Chanel Illuminating makeup base

->then I applied the Skin Food pore gel base to reduce the visibility or my pores ->only in nose, chin area and the area between the eyebrows and when you go down the nose to your cheeks

->then I applied my Catrice Infinite Matt foundation with the smoothing brush-> I also applied the pore gel base with that brush

-> remember to blend and buff very well do get an even foundation and make it look more natural

->then powder using the smoothing brush and the Illamasqua powder

->after I have done the base I will do my eyebrows using the angled brush and the Essence eyebrow shadow palette, and then use the Essence eyebrow gel to fix them

->apply now the Essence Home Sweet Home Blusher in 02 on your cheeks->agaon use your smoothing brush

->next are the eyes-> I used the Holika Holika Jewel light peach eye maker and used the thick side to apply this nice bright peachy color only in the inner corner of my eye and then used the round brush to blend it out.

-> I found that in the first picture the eye shadow was a little bit too soft and you couldn't really see it on the picture, so I decided to apply another layer

->now the peachy color is much more visible

->then I took the angled brush and the brown Maybelline eye liner and applied the liner around the eye and when going down take it a bit further down to create a so called 'Puppy Look'

->apply the eye liner also underneath the eyelashes to make sure you wont have any visible gaps

-> also take the liner a little bit along the outer eye corner underneath the eye

->can you see how by taking the eye liner down it makes that 'Puppy look' :) but I don't want the puppy look, I just needed it for that moment

->then i would use the thinner side of the Holika Holika Jewel light Peachy eye maker-> this one looks white and shimmery but as soon as you apply it on the skin the white changes into a shimmery pastel peach. So lovely!

->apply it all the way under the eye

->next I took a baby bud and smudged out the eyeliner underneath the eye taking it in more to the middle of the eye

->because you already had that soft glittery peach there the brown mixes up with it and you get a nice glittery brown

-try to get both sides as even as possible and apply more eyeliner if needed

-> now it is time for the mascara

->just apply your favourite mascara, I usually curl my eyelashes before I apply the mascara but unfortunately I forgot my eyelash curler today T^T

->also by adding circle lenses like I did you make your eyes look even bigger

I think anyone can guess by now that I love wearing circle lenses :)

->last bit- the Lips:-> first apply a tiny amount of the carmex lip balm->I actually already did that when I applied my base because the Astor Perfect Stay Lip Tint is like a felt tip pen so I didn't want to have that much lip balm product left on my lips when applying

->apply the lip tint

And voilá you are done with the 3 brush challenge

I think because it was a rather simple look I had no problems with only working with 3 brushes. The only a bit annoying thing about using just 3 brushes is that you have to keep cleaning them so you can use them for other areas again and don't just reach to a new one. But otherwise it was good.

Bibliography

Final Evaluation

Throughout the semester I did a lot of research about the Elizabethans which helped me to develop my design. But my new knowledge also made it possible for me to distinguish even small Elizabethan details in makeup designs or new collections of makeup brands who also took use of it. I found it very interesting to learn what people used as makeup before our now conventional makeup was developed. Also which side effects the Elizabethan makeup had, and that it seems like they didn't care about hair loss or skin damage because they would just apply a thick white base and wear a wig. Something you wouldn't do nowadays. Because now it is all about how to keep your skin young and healthy. I also improved my general skills and learnt how to do Elizabethan makeup.

Doing my timed assessment I felt quite confident because I practiced a lot with Ruby and was very familiar with her design. Even though I was very worried about applying the false eyelashes in the beginning I was very satisfied with the outcome of the final result. I think the veins would have looked even better if my brush would have been even thinner but I am overall very pleased with the outcome.

Ruby did an amazing job doing the base for my design. The base looks actually flawless. What I didn't like that much was that she didn't really do the lips in the shape I wanted even though she had the face chart right in front of her. The eyebrows should have been a little bit longer as well to close up with pearls and then fill in the gold. Otherwise I was very pleased with her work. Unfortunately the camera setting weren't good and the colors look washed out.

Assessment Evaluation- Me in the role of the MUA doing Ruby's design

On the day of the assessment I was quite confident that I would be able to finish Ruby's design in the giving time. Because I practiced her design a lot I was very familiar with it and knew exactly what to do. After setting up my work space I applied her MAC moisturizer but as always I forgot again to use her MAC fixing spray. But I think she didn't mind. Everything went very well this day. I was very pleased with the base because I was able to make it even. I think I spent the most time doing the eye shadow. Because I wanted to get both eyes as even as possible and also later Ruby told me that she would like the eyes actually even darker . I was most satisfied with applying the false eyelashes this time. I actually have to say they look really good and I have never applied them that nicely:) Sue also gave me a good tip to use the end of a hair pin instead of a baby bud to press down the false eyelashes and to adjust them. Because fluff from the baby buds can get stuck in the lashes or glue. Unfortunately the small brush Ruby brought in that day didn't work very well so I used the smallest brush I had to do the golden veins. And I was also pleased with them. Overall I am very pleased with the end result of my timed assessment.

FRONT VIEW

SIDE VIEW

unfortunately the lightning was a bit off here but I still like this image

Some extra pictures Ruby took after the assessment

But seeing the pictures now I think I could have used a bit more gold on the lips. It is not coming out that well.

Assessment Evaluation- Ruby as the MUA doing my design

Ruby was very professional on the day of her assessment. I am actually really amazed with the base she did. It looks just flawless. She blended very well! I will definitely give her extra points for that :)!

She also blocked out the eyebrows well. I think the eyebrows are totally fine apart from the fact that they should have been a bit longer to close up with the pearls later. But because Ruby felt a little bit stressed at the end, I think she just forgot about making the eyebrows longer as well as filling out the gap with the gold supercolor to close it with the pearls. Otherwise it looks as she got both eyes even.It definitely helped that she used a ruler to draw the lines for the different sections first. Unfortunately she didn't do the lips how I wanted them. If you look at my face chart you can see that I wanted a nice heart shape but again she filled out the lower lip too much. I also like the contouring and it looked quite strong when i was looking in the mirror but unfortunately you can't see the contouring too well on the pictures. Especially the ones we did in front of the black background. But overall I am very pleased with the final result and have to say that Ruby did a very good job that day.

Those are pictures we took in front of the black background. It is very unfortunate and annoying that we couldn't get the right setting. We changed the aperture quite a lot to get the colors and lightning right but it always looked washed out like this.

And these I took afterwards with my phone. I think you can actually see the contouring here much better than in the other ones.

And that's how I would grade her.

Practicing Ruby's design on Ruby

Ruby did a few changes the last time I practiced her design during the lesson. First of all she wants me to do more veins, which is generally fine with me but I don't want to do too many because I think it may be too much in the end and look overloaded. Also I should go down deeper with the eye shadow underneath the eye to give it a more 'dying' look. Otherwise everything else stays the same so I won't list every step here again.

->she still wanted soft edges and nicely blend out eye shadow but she also asked me to make it a bit darker

->something I struggled a bit every time I practiced was to get the eyes even-> in the end I would say I always did it but I had a lot to even out
->also the false eyelashes don't look to bad, definitely improved

->here you can clearly see that we applied more eye shadow underneath the eye to make it more ill-looking
->I tried to make the veins thinner but Ruby forgot her thin brush today so they were still too big even though I used the thinnest brush I had
->keep forgetting to use the MAC fixing spray in the beginning->but I don't think it matters that much
->something that annoys me a lot is that the base is coming off on the nose all the time->asked Kat and Sharon what to do and the suggested to buff and blend the base better but even after I did it, it kept coming off in funny patches-> also powdered well-> so I was thinking if it is maybe happening because the skin is too oily/dry? She has had quite dry skin the last time I worked on her face

Practcing Ruby's design on myself

After I tried Ruby's design for the first time on her during the lesson I was worried about a few things. First of all the false eyelashes. I used false eyelashes before but I am not particularly good at applying them. And also drawing all the veins. But I just need to practice those bits more and then it should be fine. Otherwise I really like her design and the rest shouldn't be a problem.

You need:

Kryolan supercolor in white
Kryolan ultrafoundation palette
Kryolan gold aquacolor
Illamasqua translucent powder
Ruby's MAC moisturizer and fixing spray
orange blusher which Ruby will bring in
false eyelashes
eyelash adhesive
Illamasqua natural eye palette
MAC lip mix in red and blue, matt lip mix medium
Purple lip liner which Ruby will bring in
for the eyebrows I will use my Hello Kitty brown eye shadow palette
Foundation brush
'White Pepper' and 'Caraway' from the Kryolan Viva Brilliant Medley Matt palette
Angled brush
round brush
powder brush
smaller roundish brush
a very thin brush for the veins
Illamasqua skin base
baby buds

->start with applying the MAC moisturizer and fixing spray

->mix the Kryolan white supercolor with 'Alabaster' from the Kryolan ultrafoundation palette to get a very pale base but not too white

->make sure to buff it well to make the base look very smooth and even

->powder

->contour the cheekbones with a mixture of 'White Pepper' and 'Caraway' from the Kryolan Viva Brilliant Medley Matt palette

->use orange blusher from Ruby's private Kryolan blusher palette and apply it in a roundish movement->afterwards soften it through buffing it out with the Illamasqua transluecent powder

->moving on to the eyebrows-> fill in the eyebrows with a lighter/medium brown from my Hello Kitty brown eye shadow palette ->make them look a little bit longer

->for the eyes mix the colors 'Vintage', 'Obsidian' and 'Wolf' from the Illamasqua palette together and apply it in the crease going down and wing liked out->blend it a lot to get it very soft

->apply the same eye shadow mixture under the eyes as well

-> you can go over again with the eye shadow if you want the color to be more intense, but remember to blend again to keep the edges soft

-> apply false eyelashes and then apply another layer of mascara to join the eyelashes

->take a very thin brush and start drawing the veins in gold using Kryolan aquacolor

->do random wiggly lines all around the face->when doing the chin/neck area go down the neck with the veins as well

->as well as in the hairline for a tiny bit to make it look more natural

->the veins don't have to be symmetrical

->lastly lips: use the matt MAC lip mix medium and mix it with the red and blue MAC lip mix

->first draw the outlines with a purple kip liner and then fill them in, in a kind of heart shape->take a baby bud and blend it out to get a kind of berry stained look->use some Illamasqua skin base and work it into the blending part as well

->afterwards go back to the golden auqacolor and apply some over the cupid's bow and on the center of the lower lip->blend it out a bit

NOTES ON MAKEUP DESIGN:

I think I did the eyes, lips and base very well here
especially like the eye shadow->nicely blended
I definitely have to practice applying the false eyelashes
also for the veins I have to use a really thin brush which I didn't do here

Otherwise I really enjoyed practicing Ruby's design. And if I keep practicing I won't have any time problems during the assessment.